Well, here I am back in Vermont. It was so good to be back.
It was quite a trip back, my flight from Houston to NYC was delayed by two hours, and my layover was exactly two hours, but after a SPRINT between terminals (yes, I switched airlines) I made it my flight and made it Burlington.
Leaving the airport in the car with my husband, I couldn't believe how empty the roads were. And there were just so many trees! It was heaven to be home.
Months later, the most coherent sentence I have written about China is this:
China is crazy and overwhelming and exciting and tragic and comical and frustrating and fascinating and beautiful and strange, all at once.
And that's about as far as I've gotten. It's still a lot to process.
Autumn is here, and with change sweeping around me, I feel ready to be on the move again.
Saturday, October 27, 2007
Thursday, August 23, 2007
Packing my bags once more....
Well, the hurricane passed through yesterday, and all we saw of it here in Oaxaca was a light drizzle. Luckily we were far from the strong part of the storm.
Today I had my last Spanish class, and said goodbye to many of my classmates. After my salsa dancing workshop tonight I'll join some of my friends for dinner, and then tomorrow I am off to the US!
I wish I had more time right now to reflect on my summer, but right now I have a lot to do. All I know is that when I planned out my summer adventures back in March, I had no idea how exhausting it would all be, and how ready I would be to come home. I've had some wonderful adventures, but the thought of being back in my own bed tomorrow night, of seeing my husband again, of cooking my own food, driving my own car, it all makes me very, very excited to be coming home tomorrow!
I think this will be my last entry from Mexico, hopefully I will have the energy to write a few more reflections upon coming home. I realize that my global perspective has shifted considerably this summer, it will be interesting to process it all once I am back in my own element again.
Today I had my last Spanish class, and said goodbye to many of my classmates. After my salsa dancing workshop tonight I'll join some of my friends for dinner, and then tomorrow I am off to the US!
I wish I had more time right now to reflect on my summer, but right now I have a lot to do. All I know is that when I planned out my summer adventures back in March, I had no idea how exhausting it would all be, and how ready I would be to come home. I've had some wonderful adventures, but the thought of being back in my own bed tomorrow night, of seeing my husband again, of cooking my own food, driving my own car, it all makes me very, very excited to be coming home tomorrow!
I think this will be my last entry from Mexico, hopefully I will have the energy to write a few more reflections upon coming home. I realize that my global perspective has shifted considerably this summer, it will be interesting to process it all once I am back in my own element again.
Monday, August 20, 2007
Hurricane Update
I have recieved a number of e-mails from folks concerned about hurricane Dean, and I just wanted to let everybody know that it is going to miss us here in Oaxaca. We've had a few thunderstorms as a result of the storm, but it looks like we really won't see anything worse than a few showers and storms. We are pretty far from the coast, indeed much closer to the pacific coast, and we'll be all clear in a few days.
I am flying out on Friday at noon, and it looks like by then we should have clear skies. So, all is well, it is sunny and beautiful out right now!
I am flying out on Friday at noon, and it looks like by then we should have clear skies. So, all is well, it is sunny and beautiful out right now!
Sunday, August 19, 2007
Night and Day
It is so difficult to capture the atmosphere of a place in writing, but I will try...
Oaxaca is warm and bright and beautiful. Today a friend and I walked down the pedestrian street paved with large, uneven cobblestones in the midday sun. Short, native women in traditional dresses with long, black braids casually offered us woven scarves and embroidered shirts. We walked past brightly painted stucco buildings- vibrant blue, orange rust, sunny yellow- all with black metal bars over the windows and tall, artfully carved wooden doors. Once in a while I'd walk past an open door, and could peek into the sunny courtyards filled with green plants and bouganvillias bursting with purple and orange flowers.
In a small, open-air artisans market we strolled past colorful paintings of birds, jaguars, watermelons, and landscapes. We pawed through piles of beaded necklaces made with sunflower seeds, beans, beas, coffee beans, and wooden beads dyed bright turquoise and fushia pink. More women offered white cotton shirts with floral embrodiery in all colors.
Then we wandered in and out of little shops, staring, touching : little wooden animals painted with bright colors and stunning detail, shiny black clay pots of all sizes, sparkling tin ornaments of moons and suns, little skeleton figurines playing musical instruments, handsewn leather shoes, bottlecap earrings covered in glitter, blouses and skirts and scarves in bright blue, yellow, pink, green, ever color imaginable, potted cacti and yellow sunflowers, woven rugs with hundreds of colors, dazzling arrays of silver jewlery, and much, much more.
And then we found our way to the main open air market, which offered more sensory overload. It's narrow alleyways between the stalls were bustling with customers and roving vendors alike. The stalls offered everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to flowers, dried chilis, clothing, art supplies, raw meat, cooked meals, purses, beans, cooking flour, chapulines (fried grasshoppers), chocolate, coffee, jewelrey, housewares, and more. We wandered, and I found myself a nice little purse featuring a few of Posada's famous skeleton drawings as well as a little wooden spoon for serving salsa.
But if the daytime is for sauntering, it is beacuse Oaxacans save their energy for the nightime. These guys know how to party. The same friend and I went out last night for a festival "Noche de Luces", or "Night of Lights". Approaching the main downtown square, we fell in behind a parade. At the front was a 4 piece band, dancers in flowing skirts and flowery headdresses, and a large cloth globe lit from the inside being twirled about to the music. Green and red fireworks shot up from the front of the parade. The air was festive and loud. The spectators following the parade carried paper lanterns with candels, and before I knew it I had a paper lantern in one hand and a shot of Mezcal (tequila) in the other. We followed along with the crowd until the main square, where we found various bands performing. We enjoyed the music for a bit, and then sat down in a cantina for a drink.
Our waiter's official work uniform was a t-shirt saying: La virginidad es un enfermedad y yo curo", something like, "Virginity is the sickness and I am the cure". Someone at a nearby table was having a birthday, and a huge crowd surrounded him (friends and waitstaff alike), blowing whistles (yes, like referee whistles) and chanting "¡Borracho! ¡Borracho!" (Drink! Drink!). As if that wasn't enough, another waiter brought over a large pole with a small base and made the birthday boy pole dance. They then brought the pole around to several other tables and got more folks to pole dance. It was about 10:30, and the live music hadn't even started yet! Keep in mind that this was a respectable, even expensive place downtown, not a sketchy bar on the outskirts. They sure like to have fun, we just watched in amazement from our seats.
There was a sign on the wall that said:
"Como y bebe
que la vida es breve."
Which translates something like, eat and drink because life is so short. Not unlike, eat, drink, and be merry. Sometimes I think they have the right idea!
Oaxaca is warm and bright and beautiful. Today a friend and I walked down the pedestrian street paved with large, uneven cobblestones in the midday sun. Short, native women in traditional dresses with long, black braids casually offered us woven scarves and embroidered shirts. We walked past brightly painted stucco buildings- vibrant blue, orange rust, sunny yellow- all with black metal bars over the windows and tall, artfully carved wooden doors. Once in a while I'd walk past an open door, and could peek into the sunny courtyards filled with green plants and bouganvillias bursting with purple and orange flowers.
In a small, open-air artisans market we strolled past colorful paintings of birds, jaguars, watermelons, and landscapes. We pawed through piles of beaded necklaces made with sunflower seeds, beans, beas, coffee beans, and wooden beads dyed bright turquoise and fushia pink. More women offered white cotton shirts with floral embrodiery in all colors.
Then we wandered in and out of little shops, staring, touching : little wooden animals painted with bright colors and stunning detail, shiny black clay pots of all sizes, sparkling tin ornaments of moons and suns, little skeleton figurines playing musical instruments, handsewn leather shoes, bottlecap earrings covered in glitter, blouses and skirts and scarves in bright blue, yellow, pink, green, ever color imaginable, potted cacti and yellow sunflowers, woven rugs with hundreds of colors, dazzling arrays of silver jewlery, and much, much more.
And then we found our way to the main open air market, which offered more sensory overload. It's narrow alleyways between the stalls were bustling with customers and roving vendors alike. The stalls offered everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to flowers, dried chilis, clothing, art supplies, raw meat, cooked meals, purses, beans, cooking flour, chapulines (fried grasshoppers), chocolate, coffee, jewelrey, housewares, and more. We wandered, and I found myself a nice little purse featuring a few of Posada's famous skeleton drawings as well as a little wooden spoon for serving salsa.
But if the daytime is for sauntering, it is beacuse Oaxacans save their energy for the nightime. These guys know how to party. The same friend and I went out last night for a festival "Noche de Luces", or "Night of Lights". Approaching the main downtown square, we fell in behind a parade. At the front was a 4 piece band, dancers in flowing skirts and flowery headdresses, and a large cloth globe lit from the inside being twirled about to the music. Green and red fireworks shot up from the front of the parade. The air was festive and loud. The spectators following the parade carried paper lanterns with candels, and before I knew it I had a paper lantern in one hand and a shot of Mezcal (tequila) in the other. We followed along with the crowd until the main square, where we found various bands performing. We enjoyed the music for a bit, and then sat down in a cantina for a drink.
Our waiter's official work uniform was a t-shirt saying: La virginidad es un enfermedad y yo curo", something like, "Virginity is the sickness and I am the cure". Someone at a nearby table was having a birthday, and a huge crowd surrounded him (friends and waitstaff alike), blowing whistles (yes, like referee whistles) and chanting "¡Borracho! ¡Borracho!" (Drink! Drink!). As if that wasn't enough, another waiter brought over a large pole with a small base and made the birthday boy pole dance. They then brought the pole around to several other tables and got more folks to pole dance. It was about 10:30, and the live music hadn't even started yet! Keep in mind that this was a respectable, even expensive place downtown, not a sketchy bar on the outskirts. They sure like to have fun, we just watched in amazement from our seats.
There was a sign on the wall that said:
"Como y bebe
que la vida es breve."
Which translates something like, eat and drink because life is so short. Not unlike, eat, drink, and be merry. Sometimes I think they have the right idea!
Wednesday, August 15, 2007
Two stories
What to say about Oaxaca...if you have never been, go. Really, of all the places I have been, this is one of my favorites. The climate is perfect, the people are generous and kind, the streets are as safe (or safer) than city streets in the US, the food is outstanding, and it´s a very modern, hip, and clean place. I can feel the pace of life slowing down.
"Entre los naciones y los individuales, el respecto al derecho ajeno es la paz". -Benito Juarez
This is a quote by a very famous and important political leader from Oaxaca, which translates roughly as "Between nations and individuals, respect for the rights of others is peace (creates peace)." But so far, the hardest part of being in Oaxaca is "adjusting" to the machismo culture. My Spanish teacher is definetly Mexican, and definetly takes part in the the machismo culture. There is one other young, male American student in my class who seems to enjoy the machismo culture, and plays along. Yesterday, when they were joking around about one of his friends being a "specialist of women", perhaps even a qualified gynecologist, I felt my angry, jaded, feminisit self kicking in almost as strongly as I did in China. Are women really treated this way all over the world¿ The men here check me out like it´s their job, and cat calls and whistles aren´s considered "offensive". My professor won back my respect today with two really interesting conversations about a woman´s right to vote in Mexico and homosexuality and Catholism in Mexico. And that´s the thing-he´s a really good guy, and I´m sure that most guys really are-they just don´t see machismo as degrading to women in any way. So I just wonder, when Benito Juarez coined his famous quote above, whether or not he (or his audience) had women in mind.
"La cocina antigua es la más bonita" -Soledad, my cooking teacher
I had the most wonderful cooking class yesterday afternoon with an older woman named Soledad. We also had a really interesting discussion about the plight of women in Mexico, but she was most passionate about her cooking. Her quote above translates as "The old way of cooking is the most beautiful." She proceeded to speak passionatly about the importance of putting time, and above all, love, into your food. Soledad, as best I can remember : "If you don´t enjoy cooking, your food won´t taste good. You need to put in a lot of love, to enjoy what you are doing, for the food to come out its best. I never eat in restaurants, because you can tell that the food has no love in it. It doesn´t have the same kind of flavor. But made the old way, with time and love, this is the best food." She went on and on about it, in her sweet and quiet way. We made atole de chocolate, a sweet corn juice and chocolate drink, which was delicious. I look forward to cooking again with her today.
PS The keyboard in Mexico is somewhat different and spell check is in Spanish only...hence all the typos!
"Entre los naciones y los individuales, el respecto al derecho ajeno es la paz". -Benito Juarez
This is a quote by a very famous and important political leader from Oaxaca, which translates roughly as "Between nations and individuals, respect for the rights of others is peace (creates peace)." But so far, the hardest part of being in Oaxaca is "adjusting" to the machismo culture. My Spanish teacher is definetly Mexican, and definetly takes part in the the machismo culture. There is one other young, male American student in my class who seems to enjoy the machismo culture, and plays along. Yesterday, when they were joking around about one of his friends being a "specialist of women", perhaps even a qualified gynecologist, I felt my angry, jaded, feminisit self kicking in almost as strongly as I did in China. Are women really treated this way all over the world¿ The men here check me out like it´s their job, and cat calls and whistles aren´s considered "offensive". My professor won back my respect today with two really interesting conversations about a woman´s right to vote in Mexico and homosexuality and Catholism in Mexico. And that´s the thing-he´s a really good guy, and I´m sure that most guys really are-they just don´t see machismo as degrading to women in any way. So I just wonder, when Benito Juarez coined his famous quote above, whether or not he (or his audience) had women in mind.
"La cocina antigua es la más bonita" -Soledad, my cooking teacher
I had the most wonderful cooking class yesterday afternoon with an older woman named Soledad. We also had a really interesting discussion about the plight of women in Mexico, but she was most passionate about her cooking. Her quote above translates as "The old way of cooking is the most beautiful." She proceeded to speak passionatly about the importance of putting time, and above all, love, into your food. Soledad, as best I can remember : "If you don´t enjoy cooking, your food won´t taste good. You need to put in a lot of love, to enjoy what you are doing, for the food to come out its best. I never eat in restaurants, because you can tell that the food has no love in it. It doesn´t have the same kind of flavor. But made the old way, with time and love, this is the best food." She went on and on about it, in her sweet and quiet way. We made atole de chocolate, a sweet corn juice and chocolate drink, which was delicious. I look forward to cooking again with her today.
PS The keyboard in Mexico is somewhat different and spell check is in Spanish only...hence all the typos!
Monday, August 13, 2007
First Day in Oaxaca
Well, I have to write about my first meal, because it was so exciting. I got salad, real salad (washed in purified water, these guys are good), with avacados and lime dressing. Fried potatoes, and a chicken breast, a real chicken breast with no gristle or cartilage, and fresh blue corn tortillas with salsa. Wow. That was a 3pm.
The main meal of the day here is at around 3pm, and a light snack later, around 8pm. Tonight I had some toasted french bread with a bean spread and Oaxacan cheese melted on top. Wow again. It was so great.
I slept for 4 hours today and I am heading off to bed soon. So far, the language school seems great, I am in a class of 4 people who seem about my level, and our teacher is a lot of fun. We have class from 9am until 1 every day (with coffee breaks with free, tasty coffee), then I have a one-on-one "intercambio" with a local from 3-4pm everyday to practice conversation skills, then from 4-6 we have optional acvitivies such as salsa dancing, cooking, weaving, and a few others.
Around 6pm I walked around, and was happy to find that my host family's house is very close to downtown and the Zócolo, or main city square. It is beautiful here. I remember the Zócolo as being a huge square packed with people, but after China it felt more like a little corner park with a few people out and about. It is so refreshing: the clean air, the uncrowded (by Chinese standards) streets, the vendors who turn away with a simple "No, gracias", and being able to communicate with the people around me! The only drawback is that it is cold at night (maybe 70 degrees), but at least it is very comfortable during the day.
I have not spent too much time with the family yet, except I had lunch with grandma who lives here, who is blind, which poses interesting communication challeneges (no body language). She is very smart and knew a lot about China, I look forward to getting to know her and the rest of the family more.
We have internet here at the house, so I will write more soon!
The main meal of the day here is at around 3pm, and a light snack later, around 8pm. Tonight I had some toasted french bread with a bean spread and Oaxacan cheese melted on top. Wow again. It was so great.
I slept for 4 hours today and I am heading off to bed soon. So far, the language school seems great, I am in a class of 4 people who seem about my level, and our teacher is a lot of fun. We have class from 9am until 1 every day (with coffee breaks with free, tasty coffee), then I have a one-on-one "intercambio" with a local from 3-4pm everyday to practice conversation skills, then from 4-6 we have optional acvitivies such as salsa dancing, cooking, weaving, and a few others.
Around 6pm I walked around, and was happy to find that my host family's house is very close to downtown and the Zócolo, or main city square. It is beautiful here. I remember the Zócolo as being a huge square packed with people, but after China it felt more like a little corner park with a few people out and about. It is so refreshing: the clean air, the uncrowded (by Chinese standards) streets, the vendors who turn away with a simple "No, gracias", and being able to communicate with the people around me! The only drawback is that it is cold at night (maybe 70 degrees), but at least it is very comfortable during the day.
I have not spent too much time with the family yet, except I had lunch with grandma who lives here, who is blind, which poses interesting communication challeneges (no body language). She is very smart and knew a lot about China, I look forward to getting to know her and the rest of the family more.
We have internet here at the house, so I will write more soon!
Arriving in Mexico
What a long day...
As I began my long day of travel to Oaxaca, I found myself feeling homesick and wondering why I was even going in the first place. I was still sick and run down from my three weeks in China. Part of me just wanted to be home, but as they day went on, a few things picked up my spirits.
First, I asked at the United desk in the LA airport for directions to my gate (LA was a hassle, but Mexico City was a million times worse). Anyway, she happened to be from Mexico...´´Oh my dear, Oaxaca, you are going to love it, the food is amazing, and...´´ she gave me the pep talk I needed.
Then, while waiting to board in LA, I started a conversation with a nice Chinese family. They were Taiwanese, living in the US, and headed to mainland China for the first time with their kids (flying through Mexico city?). I managed to tell them in Chinese that I had been to China (Wo qu le Zhongguo) being very careful not to tell them that I ATE Chine (Wo chi le Zhongguo). Very easy to confuse. Anyway they were really nice, thrilled by my Chinese, even looked at my photo album. They cheered me up and were very excited to hear of my plans in Mexico.
And of course, the closer I got, the more my adventurer´s spirit got the best of me, and by the time I landed in Oaxaca I was pretty excited to be here. I managed to make it to my host familiy's house by taxi colectivo, and thankfully they sent my straight to bed (it was 11:30).
As I began my long day of travel to Oaxaca, I found myself feeling homesick and wondering why I was even going in the first place. I was still sick and run down from my three weeks in China. Part of me just wanted to be home, but as they day went on, a few things picked up my spirits.
First, I asked at the United desk in the LA airport for directions to my gate (LA was a hassle, but Mexico City was a million times worse). Anyway, she happened to be from Mexico...´´Oh my dear, Oaxaca, you are going to love it, the food is amazing, and...´´ she gave me the pep talk I needed.
Then, while waiting to board in LA, I started a conversation with a nice Chinese family. They were Taiwanese, living in the US, and headed to mainland China for the first time with their kids (flying through Mexico city?). I managed to tell them in Chinese that I had been to China (Wo qu le Zhongguo) being very careful not to tell them that I ATE Chine (Wo chi le Zhongguo). Very easy to confuse. Anyway they were really nice, thrilled by my Chinese, even looked at my photo album. They cheered me up and were very excited to hear of my plans in Mexico.
And of course, the closer I got, the more my adventurer´s spirit got the best of me, and by the time I landed in Oaxaca I was pretty excited to be here. I managed to make it to my host familiy's house by taxi colectivo, and thankfully they sent my straight to bed (it was 11:30).
Friday, August 10, 2007
Creme Brulee au Grand Marnier
This post is about food!
Do you like Chinese food? I did, but after weeks on end, I started to crave familiar foods from home. I was sick of salt, of warm foods, of rice, of steamed mixed vegetables. Even the noodles, which I love, lost thier appeal when I was offered them for breakfast. I had been thinking about my first meal back in the states for at least a week. I had orginally envisioned a big salad or a hummus wrap, but here is what I got:
First Meal:
Grilled pita strips with Hummus
Cheese Ravioli in Marinara
Chocolate Torte
Tonight's Meal:
Beet Salad with Blue Cheese
Fried Zucchini Flowers stuffed with goat cheese served with garlic mashed potatoes
Creme Brulee au Grand Marnier (that one was for you, David and Chris)
Both meals were wonderful.
I should also mention that I went grocery shopping in between these meals to pick up some lunch material. I had planned on only buying a few things, but entered the grocery store jet-lagged and hungry. I was immedietly overwhelmed not only with the selection, but my desire to eat everything in sight. I wandered around in a daze, and I must have looked overwhelmed, because no less than three concerned store workers asked me if I needed any help. Here is what ended up in my basket:
Emergen-C
Smoked Salmon
Vegetable Soup
A loaf of French bread
Hummus
Tea
A Bean Burrito
A strange grocery list, especially since I was so sick of Chinese food, and we'd had lots of soup, fish, and tea in China. I got home, had a bite of everything and slept the rest of the day.
Tomorrow is Saturday. My dad and I are going to the Gravenstein Apple Fair, I am running last minute errands, and then Sunday morning I am off to Mexico. Let's hope my tolerance for Mexican food is greater than for Chinese.
Do you like Chinese food? I did, but after weeks on end, I started to crave familiar foods from home. I was sick of salt, of warm foods, of rice, of steamed mixed vegetables. Even the noodles, which I love, lost thier appeal when I was offered them for breakfast. I had been thinking about my first meal back in the states for at least a week. I had orginally envisioned a big salad or a hummus wrap, but here is what I got:
First Meal:
Grilled pita strips with Hummus
Cheese Ravioli in Marinara
Chocolate Torte
Tonight's Meal:
Beet Salad with Blue Cheese
Fried Zucchini Flowers stuffed with goat cheese served with garlic mashed potatoes
Creme Brulee au Grand Marnier (that one was for you, David and Chris)
Both meals were wonderful.
I should also mention that I went grocery shopping in between these meals to pick up some lunch material. I had planned on only buying a few things, but entered the grocery store jet-lagged and hungry. I was immedietly overwhelmed not only with the selection, but my desire to eat everything in sight. I wandered around in a daze, and I must have looked overwhelmed, because no less than three concerned store workers asked me if I needed any help. Here is what ended up in my basket:
Emergen-C
Smoked Salmon
Vegetable Soup
A loaf of French bread
Hummus
Tea
A Bean Burrito
A strange grocery list, especially since I was so sick of Chinese food, and we'd had lots of soup, fish, and tea in China. I got home, had a bite of everything and slept the rest of the day.
Tomorrow is Saturday. My dad and I are going to the Gravenstein Apple Fair, I am running last minute errands, and then Sunday morning I am off to Mexico. Let's hope my tolerance for Mexican food is greater than for Chinese.
Thursday, August 9, 2007
A Different World
Well, here I am, writing from cold, freezing, rainy California.
Yesterday was a long day of travel of Shanghai to San Fransisco. After arrival, Anja, Sandy, and I stood on a sidewalk outside a Motel 8 not only wondering what day and time it was, but also wondering where the heck we were. It felt so strange to be back, so suddenly back to a world we thought we knew.
I was definitely in a different world last night my father took me to dinner with a friend at a trendy restaurant. It was dimly lit, and a soft techno beat oozed from surround sound speakers. Abstract crystal chandeliers and paintings of flowers created a trendy atmosphere. Young professionals in suits sipped martinis, while I stood staring with my 2 day-old clothes, uncombed hair and rain jacket (it wasn't raining). When they dimmed the lights half-way through the meal, I was definitely the only person in the whole place to make the sound: "Oooooooooo."
It is surreal and strange to be back. In a matter of days, we transitioned from the rural Miao village, to urban Shanghai, to home. It all happened so fast, my mind is still catching up, unable to accept the idea that I am in a place where I don't have to bring toilet paper with me to the bathroom.
I am relishing my freedom and the now decadent idea of having a whole house to myself for the day, yet missing the crowded busy streets, my travel buddies, and I can't stop looking for our guide Wen Tao! Really, after 3 weeks, I feel lost without him! How else will I know what is happening today?
Thank you Paul for all your hard work making this blog so great! Thanks to Wen Tao, Eric, and Bruce for organizing such a phenomenal trip! Thank you all my fellow travelers, I will be thinking of you and missing you. Be well and keep in touch!
Yesterday was a long day of travel of Shanghai to San Fransisco. After arrival, Anja, Sandy, and I stood on a sidewalk outside a Motel 8 not only wondering what day and time it was, but also wondering where the heck we were. It felt so strange to be back, so suddenly back to a world we thought we knew.
I was definitely in a different world last night my father took me to dinner with a friend at a trendy restaurant. It was dimly lit, and a soft techno beat oozed from surround sound speakers. Abstract crystal chandeliers and paintings of flowers created a trendy atmosphere. Young professionals in suits sipped martinis, while I stood staring with my 2 day-old clothes, uncombed hair and rain jacket (it wasn't raining). When they dimmed the lights half-way through the meal, I was definitely the only person in the whole place to make the sound: "Oooooooooo."
It is surreal and strange to be back. In a matter of days, we transitioned from the rural Miao village, to urban Shanghai, to home. It all happened so fast, my mind is still catching up, unable to accept the idea that I am in a place where I don't have to bring toilet paper with me to the bathroom.
I am relishing my freedom and the now decadent idea of having a whole house to myself for the day, yet missing the crowded busy streets, my travel buddies, and I can't stop looking for our guide Wen Tao! Really, after 3 weeks, I feel lost without him! How else will I know what is happening today?
Thank you Paul for all your hard work making this blog so great! Thanks to Wen Tao, Eric, and Bruce for organizing such a phenomenal trip! Thank you all my fellow travelers, I will be thinking of you and missing you. Be well and keep in touch!
Monday, July 23, 2007
Posting in China
Hi all,
Posting in China is trickier than anticipated, please check the group blog for updates on my travel:
http://absolutecomputingvt.com/eil/blog.html
I'll be posting there.
China is amazing, different, sad, exciting, and much more. Here is my post about the great wall:
Well, it's hard to believe I'm really here. China! I'm surprised by how much English everyone speaks here, and by the pollution. The food is wonderful. Beijing is unbelievably huge; there are so many people here.Today we saw the Great Wall and it was truly great. Standing atop the wall on the mountain ridgeline with sweeping views in both directions, I felt the power and security the Chinese soldiers must have felt 600 years ago.The wall is like a snake's back, or as the Chinese say, a dragon's back, snaking its way along the ridgelines off into the mountain haze. The mountains, jagged, layered and blue are truly stunning.We took the tobogan chute(like an alpine slide) down the mountain back to the bottom. What fun! What an adventure! We're lucky to have a great group of people to travel with. I'll try and keep you updated on my adventures still to come!
Posting in China is trickier than anticipated, please check the group blog for updates on my travel:
http://absolutecomputingvt.com/eil/blog.html
I'll be posting there.
China is amazing, different, sad, exciting, and much more. Here is my post about the great wall:
Well, it's hard to believe I'm really here. China! I'm surprised by how much English everyone speaks here, and by the pollution. The food is wonderful. Beijing is unbelievably huge; there are so many people here.Today we saw the Great Wall and it was truly great. Standing atop the wall on the mountain ridgeline with sweeping views in both directions, I felt the power and security the Chinese soldiers must have felt 600 years ago.The wall is like a snake's back, or as the Chinese say, a dragon's back, snaking its way along the ridgelines off into the mountain haze. The mountains, jagged, layered and blue are truly stunning.We took the tobogan chute(like an alpine slide) down the mountain back to the bottom. What fun! What an adventure! We're lucky to have a great group of people to travel with. I'll try and keep you updated on my adventures still to come!
Wednesday, July 18, 2007
Getting Ready...again
I have a had a few days in California to myself to get ready to travel again.
A few days ago I went to the Jack London State Historical Park, near Sonoma. I didn't know that he and his wife had a ranch there. They planned to settle there, built a magnificent, beautiful mansion, but they day before they were to move in, it all burned to the ground. Arson was suspected, but it remains a mystery. After Jack's death (there are suspicions of suicide, but it could have been an accidental morphine overdose) his wife Charmain built a different house on the property, now used as the museum.
Jack London had been all over the world, and poking around his wife's house filled with artifacts from around the globe got me excited to travel. He was a real adventurer! The whole place was kind of sad a creepy though...abandoned buildings, barns, vineyards, all left behind and now forgotten, empty.
Today has been laundry and packing. Again, I've worried I've overpacked, but I feel ready. I can't wait to meet my co-adventurers and get to know them better. I am so excited to finally see China, while at the same time, after all the reading I've been doing, I feel angry and China and her government. There has been so much pain, death, and change. In the face of economic boom, it seems that corruption and greed run rampant, particularly with people in power and people in government. There are so many complicated issues facing China right now, among them communism, capatalism, censorship and free speech, overpopulation and the "one child" policy, a growing economy and a changing culture, and the neglected 9 million peseants who are being left behind. So so much happening, I'll try to write more about it as I gain perspective while I'm there.
Next time I write, I'll be writing from China!
Wish me luck!
A few days ago I went to the Jack London State Historical Park, near Sonoma. I didn't know that he and his wife had a ranch there. They planned to settle there, built a magnificent, beautiful mansion, but they day before they were to move in, it all burned to the ground. Arson was suspected, but it remains a mystery. After Jack's death (there are suspicions of suicide, but it could have been an accidental morphine overdose) his wife Charmain built a different house on the property, now used as the museum.
Jack London had been all over the world, and poking around his wife's house filled with artifacts from around the globe got me excited to travel. He was a real adventurer! The whole place was kind of sad a creepy though...abandoned buildings, barns, vineyards, all left behind and now forgotten, empty.
Today has been laundry and packing. Again, I've worried I've overpacked, but I feel ready. I can't wait to meet my co-adventurers and get to know them better. I am so excited to finally see China, while at the same time, after all the reading I've been doing, I feel angry and China and her government. There has been so much pain, death, and change. In the face of economic boom, it seems that corruption and greed run rampant, particularly with people in power and people in government. There are so many complicated issues facing China right now, among them communism, capatalism, censorship and free speech, overpopulation and the "one child" policy, a growing economy and a changing culture, and the neglected 9 million peseants who are being left behind. So so much happening, I'll try to write more about it as I gain perspective while I'm there.
Next time I write, I'll be writing from China!
Wish me luck!
Saturday, July 14, 2007
Lavender Ice Cream
California is wonderful, because you can find things to eat like lavender ice cream made with local organic lavender. It was delicious.
This seemed to be the general spirit of the north coast: earthy, refreshing, laid back, and well, not delicious, but at least very beautiful.
On Thursday Mike and I drove north up Route 1 (The Coastal Highway) to Mendocino. The road was very curvy and featured stunning views of the ocean, sheer cliffs dropping a hundred feet to the crashing waves, rocky crags and arches. We were lucky enough to have a beautiful, sunny day with zero fog, which is a rarity along this coast.
Mendocino is a cute little north coast tourist town, not unlike a small coastal New England town. Amid the antique, art, and wine shops we stayed in a historic little hotel with a balcony overlooking the ocean. The Mendocino music festival was in full swing on the green across from our hotel, so after dinner was had dessert and wine on the balcony and listening to great music until it was time for bed.
Friday we continued north and visited some redwood groves before turning south to head back to Sebastapol. We were on a mission to Navarro Winery to find one of my dad's favorite wines : Navarro Pinot Noir Methode Ancienne (an old fashioned method of processing grapes, delicately, apparently to reduce harsh tannins. We tasted it at the winery, it was smooth!). We bought a few bottles as a thank you present for my dad for booking us the night at the hotel in Mendocino.
It was a wonderful few days to soak up the north coast atmosphere and relax. Now we are back in Sebastapol with dad, Mike is packing, he flys back to Vermont tonight. And in just a few more days, I'll be flying out for China!
This seemed to be the general spirit of the north coast: earthy, refreshing, laid back, and well, not delicious, but at least very beautiful.
On Thursday Mike and I drove north up Route 1 (The Coastal Highway) to Mendocino. The road was very curvy and featured stunning views of the ocean, sheer cliffs dropping a hundred feet to the crashing waves, rocky crags and arches. We were lucky enough to have a beautiful, sunny day with zero fog, which is a rarity along this coast.
Mendocino is a cute little north coast tourist town, not unlike a small coastal New England town. Amid the antique, art, and wine shops we stayed in a historic little hotel with a balcony overlooking the ocean. The Mendocino music festival was in full swing on the green across from our hotel, so after dinner was had dessert and wine on the balcony and listening to great music until it was time for bed.
Friday we continued north and visited some redwood groves before turning south to head back to Sebastapol. We were on a mission to Navarro Winery to find one of my dad's favorite wines : Navarro Pinot Noir Methode Ancienne (an old fashioned method of processing grapes, delicately, apparently to reduce harsh tannins. We tasted it at the winery, it was smooth!). We bought a few bottles as a thank you present for my dad for booking us the night at the hotel in Mendocino.
It was a wonderful few days to soak up the north coast atmosphere and relax. Now we are back in Sebastapol with dad, Mike is packing, he flys back to Vermont tonight. And in just a few more days, I'll be flying out for China!
Thursday, July 12, 2007
Visiting Yosemite
Mike and I spent the last 4 days visiting Yosemite with my Dad and his friend Karen. It was my first visit to the park, and I will try and share my impressions.
Honestly, I was not prepared for the tourist destination that is Yosemite. Having travelled mostly in the east, I expected to find people like me in the national park: people who like being outside, who like to walk and hike, who know better than to feed squirrels. I had no idea. I wasn't ready for all the RVs, the swimming pool, the golf course, taco stand, women in heels and manicures, and the obese squirrels that positively waddled.
I think it was in part because of this, that it felt like such a Disneyland, I had a hard time connecting with the place. I know it is supposed to be a marvel of nature, but as I gazed at the hulking mass of half dome, gained sweeping views of the valley and stared upward at sheer cliffs, I felt less than moved. It didn't feel real, I couldn't appreciate it. At first I wondered why this park was even exciting at all.
Then, on our third day, we hiked up to Vernal and then Nevada Falls. For the third day we were walking around in extreme heat and sun: weather prediction was 97 degrees for the valley floor, and we didn't feel much cooler as we gained elevation. But as we approached the top of Nevada falls, dark clouds moved in and we heard thunder. A ranger hiked past us, saying he was on his way to half dome to get people off of there, but that we should be OK continuing to the top of the falls. At the top of the falls, it started to rain. We headed for tree cover on the ridge just past the falls, and very quickly the wind picked up, and we were hunkered down in the middle of a hail and lightening storm.
And although it sounds strange, at that moment, sheltered beneath a sequoia with driving hail and lighting crashing around us, I was suddenly having a great time. Now I realized that I actually WAS in nature, it wasn't all a facade for tourists, and suddenly I was able to appreciate Yosemite and the power of nature there in a different way. It was scary up there for a few minutes, but generally it gave us a sense of adventure.
Other highlights include seeing fat bears roaming around in broad daylight, getting stung by a nastly little bee on the first day, hiking Sentinel Dome and Glacier Point (great views!), the fact that our campsite wasn't actually crowded, checking out cliffs and waterfalls that measured in the thousands of feet, swimming in the river after hiking in the heat, being the ONLY people with raingear in the rain/hail storm, and generally just seeing all those famous landmarks for the first time.
I think that is all for now. Mike and I are headed up to Mendocino for a night (anniversary present from dad!) to see the ocean and maybe more redwoods.
I'll write more when I can!
Honestly, I was not prepared for the tourist destination that is Yosemite. Having travelled mostly in the east, I expected to find people like me in the national park: people who like being outside, who like to walk and hike, who know better than to feed squirrels. I had no idea. I wasn't ready for all the RVs, the swimming pool, the golf course, taco stand, women in heels and manicures, and the obese squirrels that positively waddled.
I think it was in part because of this, that it felt like such a Disneyland, I had a hard time connecting with the place. I know it is supposed to be a marvel of nature, but as I gazed at the hulking mass of half dome, gained sweeping views of the valley and stared upward at sheer cliffs, I felt less than moved. It didn't feel real, I couldn't appreciate it. At first I wondered why this park was even exciting at all.
Then, on our third day, we hiked up to Vernal and then Nevada Falls. For the third day we were walking around in extreme heat and sun: weather prediction was 97 degrees for the valley floor, and we didn't feel much cooler as we gained elevation. But as we approached the top of Nevada falls, dark clouds moved in and we heard thunder. A ranger hiked past us, saying he was on his way to half dome to get people off of there, but that we should be OK continuing to the top of the falls. At the top of the falls, it started to rain. We headed for tree cover on the ridge just past the falls, and very quickly the wind picked up, and we were hunkered down in the middle of a hail and lightening storm.
And although it sounds strange, at that moment, sheltered beneath a sequoia with driving hail and lighting crashing around us, I was suddenly having a great time. Now I realized that I actually WAS in nature, it wasn't all a facade for tourists, and suddenly I was able to appreciate Yosemite and the power of nature there in a different way. It was scary up there for a few minutes, but generally it gave us a sense of adventure.
Other highlights include seeing fat bears roaming around in broad daylight, getting stung by a nastly little bee on the first day, hiking Sentinel Dome and Glacier Point (great views!), the fact that our campsite wasn't actually crowded, checking out cliffs and waterfalls that measured in the thousands of feet, swimming in the river after hiking in the heat, being the ONLY people with raingear in the rain/hail storm, and generally just seeing all those famous landmarks for the first time.
I think that is all for now. Mike and I are headed up to Mendocino for a night (anniversary present from dad!) to see the ocean and maybe more redwoods.
I'll write more when I can!
Saturday, July 7, 2007
Northern California and San Francisco
Ok, well I just noticed I've been spelling San FranCisco wrong in the last post, my apologies, I don't have enough time right now to go back and fix them. :)
The last few days have been fun. Yesterday, Mike and began our day with a drive out to Bodega Bay. It was a very foggy and cool day on the coast, so we walked around a little bit, but then continued to drive up Route 1. Route 1 is a winding, curvy road that follows the California coast. We got out at a few overlooks, watching some surfers catch waves in the freezing waters, and walked down to a beach. Even though fog is not ideal weather, it was kind of a novelty for us.
The amazing thing is, we we turned east of Route 1 and started heading inland, within mintutes the thick fog had dissapeared we had and blinding, hot sunlight instead. Driving through wine country is very beautiful. We had some Mexican food for lunch (yum!!!) and then went to Armstrong Woods. It is a preserve of Redwoods, and they were pretty impressive. We hiked around most of the afternoon and then drove up to an overlook. Then we met up with my dad, had a great sushi dinner, and did some preparatory shopping for out trip to Yosemite in a few days.
Today we headed into San Francisco itself. It was foggy and gray again, but we went to the Marin headlands for a nice view of the Golden Gate bridge. Then we walked around Fisherman's Wharf, walked around Ghiradelli Square (and my favorite part- got a free chocolate!), took the cable car to China town for lunch, visited the cable car museum, took the cable car back to the wharf, walked around some more, and then headed back to Sebastapol. Walking around in China town itself got me excited to visit China for real- but I was too chicken to try out any of the Mandarin I've learned! I guess I will have plenty of time for that in China!
I am shocked by how expensive everything is out here:
Golden Gate Bridge Toll: $5
Fisherman's Wharf Parking (5 hours): $27
Fresh Wild Salmon: $16.99/lb
Gas: $3.33/gallon
Lunch Dim Sum Plate: $10.95
Despite all that, we're having a great time and really enjoying the California lifestyle.
We are leaving for Yosemite tomorrow, so I probably won't post for a few days, I'll give you the full report when we get back!!!
The last few days have been fun. Yesterday, Mike and began our day with a drive out to Bodega Bay. It was a very foggy and cool day on the coast, so we walked around a little bit, but then continued to drive up Route 1. Route 1 is a winding, curvy road that follows the California coast. We got out at a few overlooks, watching some surfers catch waves in the freezing waters, and walked down to a beach. Even though fog is not ideal weather, it was kind of a novelty for us.
The amazing thing is, we we turned east of Route 1 and started heading inland, within mintutes the thick fog had dissapeared we had and blinding, hot sunlight instead. Driving through wine country is very beautiful. We had some Mexican food for lunch (yum!!!) and then went to Armstrong Woods. It is a preserve of Redwoods, and they were pretty impressive. We hiked around most of the afternoon and then drove up to an overlook. Then we met up with my dad, had a great sushi dinner, and did some preparatory shopping for out trip to Yosemite in a few days.
Today we headed into San Francisco itself. It was foggy and gray again, but we went to the Marin headlands for a nice view of the Golden Gate bridge. Then we walked around Fisherman's Wharf, walked around Ghiradelli Square (and my favorite part- got a free chocolate!), took the cable car to China town for lunch, visited the cable car museum, took the cable car back to the wharf, walked around some more, and then headed back to Sebastapol. Walking around in China town itself got me excited to visit China for real- but I was too chicken to try out any of the Mandarin I've learned! I guess I will have plenty of time for that in China!
I am shocked by how expensive everything is out here:
Golden Gate Bridge Toll: $5
Fisherman's Wharf Parking (5 hours): $27
Fresh Wild Salmon: $16.99/lb
Gas: $3.33/gallon
Lunch Dim Sum Plate: $10.95
Despite all that, we're having a great time and really enjoying the California lifestyle.
We are leaving for Yosemite tomorrow, so I probably won't post for a few days, I'll give you the full report when we get back!!!
Thursday, July 5, 2007
Arriving in California
Well, yesterday, Independence day, was a long day!
We started in Burlington International Airport at 3pm, then to Philly, then Vegas, then finally to San Fransisco. It was a long day of travel, we arrived exhausted!
The best part by far was taking off from Vegas. Our plane left just after sunset, and from the runway we could see the strip of glowing lights, which sucked us in like moths. As we stared at the lights, the towering hotels, the flashing bulbs, we both admitted that suddenly we felt the urgent need to take a vacation to Vegas.
But as the plane took off, the fireworks display began. Suddenly, it seemed like every business in town was launching colored explosions into the sky. As the plane pulled away and we gained a wider view of the city, we saw more and more bursts of fireworks, seemingly every few blocks on the glowing grid. It was quite a sight, I felt like a movie star standing in a football stadium with flashbulbs of green and red popping off all around me.
Even as we coasted into San Fransisco, around 10pm local time, we still caught a number of fireworks displays over the bay and around the city. It was really a treat to see it all from the air.
Today, we slept in and spent the morning exploring Sebastapol on foot. We have no car for today, so hanging around, adjusting to the time change and the heat with a few beers seemed in good order. We might head down to the park and throw a frisbee later on.
It's very exciting to be here and to see my dad. It'll be great to have him as our local guide as we explore the area!
We're off to Yosemite in a few days!
"Life isn't about finding yourself. It's about creating yourself." -Anonymous
We started in Burlington International Airport at 3pm, then to Philly, then Vegas, then finally to San Fransisco. It was a long day of travel, we arrived exhausted!
The best part by far was taking off from Vegas. Our plane left just after sunset, and from the runway we could see the strip of glowing lights, which sucked us in like moths. As we stared at the lights, the towering hotels, the flashing bulbs, we both admitted that suddenly we felt the urgent need to take a vacation to Vegas.
But as the plane took off, the fireworks display began. Suddenly, it seemed like every business in town was launching colored explosions into the sky. As the plane pulled away and we gained a wider view of the city, we saw more and more bursts of fireworks, seemingly every few blocks on the glowing grid. It was quite a sight, I felt like a movie star standing in a football stadium with flashbulbs of green and red popping off all around me.
Even as we coasted into San Fransisco, around 10pm local time, we still caught a number of fireworks displays over the bay and around the city. It was really a treat to see it all from the air.
Today, we slept in and spent the morning exploring Sebastapol on foot. We have no car for today, so hanging around, adjusting to the time change and the heat with a few beers seemed in good order. We might head down to the park and throw a frisbee later on.
It's very exciting to be here and to see my dad. It'll be great to have him as our local guide as we explore the area!
We're off to Yosemite in a few days!
"Life isn't about finding yourself. It's about creating yourself." -Anonymous
Tuesday, July 3, 2007
Welcome!
This is my first post. Today is my one year wedding anniversary! I can't believe it, it's been a whole year!
Tomorrow, Mike and I head off to San Fransisco for a few weeks to celebrate. We'll be visiting my father, camping, seeing the sights. On July 19th, I fly off to China with a group of teachers for another trip (see my other blog). Then on Aug 12th, I return to California and go right from there to Mexico for two more weeks of language school in Oaxaca.
So how am I feeling right now, on the eve of my departure for all these travels? I feel like I've packed too much, wondering if I've really learned enough Mandarin, I'm excited to go but sad to eventually be without my husband for 5 weeks, thrilled to be visiting a new part of the world, and very curious where my adventures will take me.
If you're curious too, check back in once in a while and see what I've posted.
Off I go!
The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a foreign land. ~G.K. Chesterton
Tomorrow, Mike and I head off to San Fransisco for a few weeks to celebrate. We'll be visiting my father, camping, seeing the sights. On July 19th, I fly off to China with a group of teachers for another trip (see my other blog). Then on Aug 12th, I return to California and go right from there to Mexico for two more weeks of language school in Oaxaca.
So how am I feeling right now, on the eve of my departure for all these travels? I feel like I've packed too much, wondering if I've really learned enough Mandarin, I'm excited to go but sad to eventually be without my husband for 5 weeks, thrilled to be visiting a new part of the world, and very curious where my adventures will take me.
If you're curious too, check back in once in a while and see what I've posted.
Off I go!
The whole object of travel is not to set foot on foreign land; it is at last to set foot on one's own country as a foreign land. ~G.K. Chesterton
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